Now onto wiring up the step and direction.....
I have given up the attempt to wire through the 16w ribbon, the gsm manual not providing enough info. Have had a look through the digiplan manual, and would like confirmation that pins 26c and 32c are the correct pins to solder direct to for step and direction, 26c direction - 32c step?? should there be any other pins required???
Can I use either pin 10 a or c to run 24v to the BoB?? in order to get a 12v supply out
It looks like all the inputs you need should be switched to 0V to 'activate' them...
Pin 26C - connect this to 0V to change motor DIRECTION
Pin 28C - connect this to the step PULSE output where pulling low to 0V will move it one step (note the minimum pulse width of 10uS which may be something you have to configure in the controller parameters)
Pin 30C - connect to 0V to enable/energise the drive
Pin 10A and 10C +24V can be used to power anything you like, up to a maximum current draw of 250mA
The motors and drive supply are probably still connected so that should be it!
Pin 26C - connect this to 0V to change motor DIRECTION
Pin 28C - connect this to the step PULSE output where pulling low to 0V will move it one step (note the minimum pulse width of 10uS which may be something you have to configure in the controller parameters)
Pin 30C - connect to 0V to enable/energise the drive
Pin 10A and 10C +24V can be used to power anything you like, up to a maximum current draw of 250mA
The motors and drive supply are probably still connected so that should be it!
Silly question but is 0v and ground the same????
As with Pin 30c, should this be connected to the 0v connector on the BOB? or the ground connector??
As with Pin 30c, should this be connected to the 0v connector on the BOB? or the ground connector??
Normally 0V is ground but it'd be better to use the 0V of the drives 24VDC logic supply...I think this is supplied externally from an 18V AC transformer and then rectified inside the drive
So that would mean you could link 30C (Energise input) to 16A, 16C, 18A or 18C (0V) in order to energise it
If you are supplying the BOB from the drive then it should all work well...ie, the +24V and 0V are from the same supply on the drive.
You may get noise or other problems if the 0V you are switching to is from a different supply to the drive itself
So that would mean you could link 30C (Energise input) to 16A, 16C, 18A or 18C (0V) in order to energise it
If you are supplying the BOB from the drive then it should all work well...ie, the +24V and 0V are from the same supply on the drive.
You may get noise or other problems if the 0V you are switching to is from a different supply to the drive itself
The manual states on pg24 ( 0v signal- not to confuse pin 32c with 16/18 as 32c is not a power signal) can I still connect 32 to 16 or 18?
My understanding is that 0v on 32C is for the current programming resistor (32A --@R@-- 32C)
You probably won't need that so leave pins 32A and 32C alone.
The other 4 0v on 16 and 18 will be used for the logic inputs, ie the 0V side of the +24V output.
Like shown here:
You probably won't need that so leave pins 32A and 32C alone.
The other 4 0v on 16 and 18 will be used for the logic inputs, ie the 0V side of the +24V output.
Like shown here:
Attachments:
so I'll leave pins 16 and 18 alone too, unless I use the 24v as an output and use anyone of the 4 for a ground
Sounds like a plan - if you connect it up and start losing position or get random pulses, then you might want to look at commoning the 0V of the drive to the 0V of the BOB supply.
Soldered all the wiring to the pins, connected it up and ......... superb!! it works great. Motors seem to run smoothly in all axis..... v, pleased
24v works fine into BOB too, and 12v out..
E stop and home switches all connected and working great through mach3.
Now onto spindle motor .....

24v works fine into BOB too, and 12v out..
E stop and home switches all connected and working great through mach3.
Now onto spindle motor .....
That's great news!
Could you scan or photograph your schematics and post them so anyone else has a quick reference for the future ? Cheers
Could you scan or photograph your schematics and post them so anyone else has a quick reference for the future ? Cheers