dip switch pics and location..

All info relating to the Denford Triac series of CNC milling machines

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-=PAB=-
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dip switch pics and location..

Post by -=PAB=- » Fri 03 Nov , 2006 18:08 pm

the dip switch settings i need are in the rear electrical cabinet door on a blue switch see below... if anyone could send me there settings - would be most greatful (and maybe a reward if it works) cheers,,, matt...
Attachments
dips1.jpg
dips1.jpg (127.25 KiB) Viewed 10520 times
dips2.jpg
electrical cabinet door below external monitor...
dips2.jpg (92.54 KiB) Viewed 10520 times

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Post by -=PAB=- » Fri 03 Nov , 2006 18:14 pm

it is for a triac atc... thanks

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Post by Denford Admin » Thu 30 Nov , 2006 14:51 pm

Found some info that looks relevant ...

Seems like the 8-way DIP switch is connected directly to an Octal buffer (74LS244), which in turn connects to the boards address and data bus.

I've run out of (spare) time to upload any more pics, but the only instructions (I can see) about the switches say:
SW7 on is RS232 operation
SW7 off is optional keypad usage
The switches are also mentioned regarding HEXCHAR, and level of parity


I would be tempted to scope up pins 1(/EN) and 19(/EN) of IC45, to determine when the processor actually reads the state of these switches. (The signal should be normally high, and will go low (0V) when the chip is being read)

At least then you have more chance of finding a setting that works and what the switches actually do.


One step closer ? :wink:
Attachments
triac-toolchanger-smcu-schematic-3of4.jpg
Schematic of tool changer SMCU board
triac-toolchanger-smcu-schematic-3of4.jpg (224.52 KiB) Viewed 10440 times
triac-toolchanger-pcb.jpg
SMCU board PCB layout
triac-toolchanger-pcb.jpg (380.05 KiB) Viewed 10440 times
triac-toolchanger-sequence4.jpg
SMCU board errors and some mention of the switch settings
triac-toolchanger-sequence4.jpg (136.8 KiB) Viewed 10440 times

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Mr Magoo
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Post by Mr Magoo » Fri 01 Dec , 2006 11:01 am

Hi PAB n Admin...

I don't have any more info on the DIP switches I'm afaid (Other than the info I gave earlier regarding what they do on a 'regular' SMCU controller).

It does still ring a bell that there could have been some battery-backed RAM on the ATC controller and your problems could be related to this (I'm not too sure about this so treat this as a 'maybe'!!!).
The Battery-Backed RAM was in the form of a regular 32 pin CMOS RAM chip mounted on a 'fat' socket that housed a battery (the socket looks like a regular dil socket but about twice as fat) Looking at the PCB layout diagram I'd guess it'd be IC33. If it is on a battery backed socket then it could be this that has got cleared ??? I don't have a solution if this is the case :(

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managed to get dip switch settings but still does not work??

Post by -=PAB=- » Sat 27 Jan , 2007 0:39 am

i have found some one with a triac atc the exact year of manufacture as mine (1990) and tried the settings but it still does not work? could it be this ram problem- could i have permanently damaged the electronics? how can i clear the ram???? please help? i've spent a lot of money on this machie and its just a pile of metal at the moment... :arrow: :cry: :cry:

thanks to everyone that has tried to help.. :)

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Post by Denford Admin » Sat 27 Jan , 2007 10:51 am

hi pab

good news about the switch settings (what were they for the record ?)

bad news about it not fixing it :(

its been a while since your first post on this - can you go over what the exact symptoms are now.
was anything gained by using the correct switch settings ?

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triac

Post by -=PAB=- » Sat 27 Jan , 2007 18:05 pm

machine powers up no display on either screen and no response from control. no benefit has been gained at all apart from the fact i know its scrap metal- until i upgrade or someone knows how to fix it???

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Post by Mr Magoo » Sat 27 Jan , 2007 21:27 pm

This problem has nothing to do with the DIP switches :!: :!: :!:

The Tool Changer control box is totally independant to the main controller. The controller will power up with the ATC box disconnected (it's just that you can't datum the machine)

(sorry PAB, but saying the machine powers up but nothing on the screen is like saying your TV works but it's just that the screen is blank and there's no sound- it's go us all barking up the wrong tree)

Disconnect the cables that connect the ATC box to the main controller (2 cables I think, 1 with a round 7 pin connector, 1 with a 15 pin 'D' type). If the main controller still doesn't power up then the problem is not with the ATC box :!:

I suggest you check the Main Controller fuses. Make sure the power is disconnected and slide the controller out of the front of the machine (see viewtopic.php?t=300 for details on how to do this ). The fuses are on the main PCB, located near the back. Not sure how many or what values but suggest you remove them and check with a meter.

What do you mean when you say the machine 'Powers Up'?
Do the axis drives power up when you press the 'Drives On' button (can't rememeber the exact name of the button - it brings the drives on!)?
What lights are light on the front panel?
Does the fan run?
Does the Audio Cassette work?
Does the machine worklight come on?

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more info

Post by -=PAB=- » Sat 27 Jan , 2007 23:47 pm

all the lights come on the front panel including power - tape - etc.. cant get it to datum or turn the power on to the drives. cant check the tape works without being able to see the monitor- it does not work independantly. cant hear the fan either. in the rear electrical box (atc) external monitor side -i have 2 green lights and one flashing continously red.

hope this may help????

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more and more info

Post by -=PAB=- » Sat 27 Jan , 2007 23:48 pm

oh and machine light does not come on..

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Post by Mr Magoo » Sun 28 Jan , 2007 1:49 am

It does sound like a power supply problem.

I'd go for checking those fuses first.

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Post by Denford Admin » Mon 29 Jan , 2007 0:11 am

I think Magoo is right - check around inside the box for power loss due to fuses / loose connectors etc etc..

I wouldn't give up on it yet, for what could be a simple fix.

If you don't feel qualified to be checking live voltages, then call in someone with some electrical experience - even if its an electrician out of the yellow pages - they should be able to check the wiring, and voltages, even if they don't know what they are looking at.


Good luck

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